Monday, April 25, 2005

Furman weekly, April 22 - 24; Volume 3, Number 12

Wow. What a week! We are really worn out. This has been a really tiring week. We saw lots of really cool things, but we worked hard to do it.

We got up on Friday and had breakfast in the rooms, after wishing Grandpa happy birthday. Then we all packed into the car (it is kind of crowded with the six of us and the luggage) and headed to Italy. We didn't have a hard time leaving Geneva. It was much better than when we arrived. We did have one stop on the way to Italy; Mount Blanc, the highest peak in Europe. We stopped to look at the peak (and the other mountains in the Alps), and then drove UNDER it!! The tunnel took about 20 minutes, and when we came out, we were on the other side of the Alps and in Italy.

We drove for another few hours and finally arrived in Turin (Turino). We were going to skip checking in until after a little sight-seeing, but we stumbled across the hotel as we were entering town. So we checked in and picked up a map. It was very helpful! Turin is about as well marked as Geneva. But, armed with a map, we made our way to the Museo dell Automobile (Automobile museum). Turin is the Detroit of Italy, making brands like Fiat and Ferrari. They had some really cool displays of old cars starting with a model A and a model T through modern cars. They even had some steam engine cars. We had a good time wondering through the displays and were pleased that some of the displays had English translations.

Then we headed off to the Borgo Medioevala, a reconstructed medieval village. It was built in 1884. It is a small cluster of buildings, dwellings, workshops, and stores all looking onto one street with a castle at the end. The castle was really cool, but we didn't get much out of the tour. It was only in Italian. We walked through the town and felt like we were in the middle ages due to the large numbers of knights and ladies running through the streets. (A school had been making clothes and armor out of crape paper and had been let loose to have a battle.)

We walked back to the car by way of the river and park. After resting in the hotel for about an hour, we went to a restaurant recommended by the front desk. Time for PIZZA!! Because restaurants don't open until 8:00 (even later than in France), it was a late night. We had great pizza, though. The wait staff had a good time trying to teach us Italian, and thought we were very funny. It was a wonderful meal and we look forward to our next meal.

From there it was off to bed. Saturday was going to be a big day. We have all of Turin to see in one day!!

Saturday morning we woke up and had breakfast at the hotel. Then we drove into Turin. Amazingly, we were able to find a free (read not pay) parking space! We then walked to our first stop, Duomo di San Giovanni. While it is a beautiful church in its own right, this is the church that houses The Shroud of Turin. This is the 4 yard sheet of linen that many believe to be the burial shroud of Christ. Although the actual shroud is next scheduled for public viewing in 2025, we saw the case that holds it. There was also a striking, full sized photo copy. There was a person constantly narrating the copy, always in Italian. However, we could see the outline of a man that was obviously hurt when he died. Andrew was very impressed with how clearly you can see the outline of a face. I found it very moving to stand before the case holding the shroud.

From there we moved on to the Palazzo Reale. This is a 17th century castle. Unfortunately, the Italians don't seem to be very organized and the next tour was at 1:00 (it was 11:30), so we bought tickets for the tour and went to see the San Lorenzo church. This was a really beautiful church. It is very different from any church we have ever seen. It was circular and the guide book says that it was designed by the architect, Guariano Guarini, at his best. It was very hard to explain, so I will have to let the pictures speak for themselves. There was also a side alcove with a copy of the shroud (much less crowded) and selves showing the articles of the passion. There was a replica of the crown of thorns (matched to the wounds on the shroud), samples of the nails that would have been used, and some of the whips that would have been used (also matching the wounds on the back).

We have a quick lunch of Panini, al fresco, before heading back to the tour. Although the tour was in Italian, we enjoyed the beautiful rooms and the brief written translations into English. We also met a man from England (and Canada) who was on holiday. He offered to translate if the tour was in German or Dutch, while I offered the same for French. No luck though. The castle was decorated similar to Versailles. Lots of paintings and gold. I'm sure we would have gotten more out of it if we had understood the tour. :)

I forgot to mention that Turin is the sight of the 2006 Winter Olympics. Knowing that, we knew that there was going to be some road construction while they put in a subway system. We didn't see much of that. What we did see was the whole town "sprucing up." Many of the statues were covered up and being cleaned. Many buildings as well. In fact, the next thing we tried to see. The Queen's castle is right across the square from the Palazzo Reale. However, it was closed and looked like it was being remodeled. So we moved on, consoling ourselves with gelato (ice cream) on the way.

We had quite a walk to get to the twin churches of San Carlo and San Cristina. These two churches are built right next to each other (both in the 17th century) on Piazza San Carlo. The Piazza (plaza) was described to us as one of the most beautiful in Turin. We missed the piazza, walked right on by. When we finally found it, we knew why we walked by. It is not there. It has been replaced by a hole in the ground. Apparently, they are redoing the piazza. Because the churches open onto the square, they were closed as well. We have learned that you shouldn't visit a town that is hosting the Olympics the next year. Everything is being closed in preparation for the next year!!

We then ran into the British man from the castle. It turns out he owns a bed and breakfast in Canada and invited my parents up for a stay!

We walked back to almost where we started to go to two museums that are housed in the same building, Museo Egizio and Galleria Sabauda. The Galleria is a collection of paintings from the house of Savoy (the royal family). It sounded very impressive and we were looking forward to seeing it. However, it was also close in preparation for the Olympics. So we had to settle on just the Museo. This was really cool. It is called the Egyptian museum. There were statues of Pharaohs, real mummies in real sarcophaguses, and entire tombs transplanted there. It is one of the best museums of its kind. We had a great time and the kids were very fascinated with the mummies and the food and things that were buried with them.

We were all really worn out by this time, so we headed back to the hotel to give the boys baths. We then got another recommendation for a restaurant, this time we requested pasta. The first option was closed, the second full, but the third was open. It appeared that the front desk misunderstood our request, because this was a seafood restaurant. Very traditional Italian food, but hard on Dave. He settled for the calzone, and the rest of us took the recommendation of the waiter. What we got was a pasta with mussels, calamari, squid, and a prawn. UGH!! Definitely not what I would have picked. I suffered through and most of it was pretty good. The highpoint of the meal was the dessert. You get to pick out three!!! Yummy.

We took our time in the morning and were on the road by around 10:30. When we left Turin, it started raining. As we climbed in the Alps, it started snowing. By the time we left the tunnel on the other side, it was raining again and it rained the whole way home. We got home around 7:30. A very long day. Needless to say we are tired out. Hopefully we will rest up this week.

Well, I hope you enjoyed our adventures this week. We sure did. You probably won't hear from us for a week now. Hope you are all well. We miss you.

Amy

Wednesday, April 20, 2005

Furman weekly, special edition, April 20 - 21

Here we are again. Still in Geneva, and still having a great vacation. It can be very stressful to travel, but I think we are all doing really well.

Wednesday, the 20th was a very long day. We saw some really amazing things, though. The day started off kind of rough. We decided to try out the public transport system. We found the train station, thought we deciphered the route and schedules, but couldn't find anyway to pay. The machine accepted only Swiss coins, of which we had none. It was rather difficult. We headed across the tracks to the train info booth and a very kind lady helped us out. She showed us the train and bus we wanted and let us purchase our tickets as well. We got on the train and headed off.

Our first stop was to walk up the hill that leads to the United Nations. On the way, we passed the World Trade Organization, UNICEF, and the World Meteorological Organization. We took pictures of all these places and the main entrance to the United Nations. Our entrance was further on, so we made a side trip to the Museum of the International Red Cross and Red Crescent. This is a really well done museum. It tells the history of the Red Cross and shows many of their outreach programs. Some highlights were the millions of cards of POWs from WWI, the oldest known Red Cross flag, and the lists of humanitarian efforts. At the end, they had rooms dedicated to all of their current goals. They even had an example of one of the mosquito nets that my women's group makes at church! That was really cool. They also had a special exhibition regarding the current wars between the US and Afghanistan and Iraq. That was very sobering and we did not take the boys in to see the exhibit.

After lunch at the museum, we headed across the street to the United Nations. After surrendering our passports at the checkpoint, we had an hour wait for our tour to begin. There was a gift shop to poke around in while we waited, though. Our tour was very informative. Our tour guide was from Senegal. We got to sit in two conference rooms, including the main one that seats 2000 delegates and that is seen on TV. Michael's favorite part was the peacocks that roam freely around the complex as part of the agreement by the man that donated the property.

We were pretty worn out by this time so we headed back to the hotel. We fed the boys in the room and then got to do something that we never expected to do. We went out to dinner alone! The boys stayed in the hotel with my parents, and we wandered down the street to the local FONDUE place. Of course! We are in Switzerland after all. It was great. We had cheese fondue and then tried one plate of raclette because Amy saw it and was jealous. All of the food was great and the waiter was very entertaining. We really enjoyed ourselves and like the benefits of traveling with grandparents. They went to the same restaurant after we got back.

Thursday, April 21st was another big day. We slept in a little, but headed out by around 10:00. We walked along the lake until we got to a bridge on the Isle de la Cite. Here we found a plaque commemorating the fact the Julius Caesar past through Geneva in 58 BC. Then we headed off to a park where the boys and Grandpa had fun playing chess with three foot tall chess pieces. Michael especially liked attacking his brother's pieces.

Our next stop was the Monument of the Reformation. This is a huge monument dedicated to the 16th century religious movement, spearheaded by William Ferrel, John Calvin, Theodore de Beze, and John Knox. There were large statues of the four men and also bas reliefs of things like the signing of the Mayflower contract. It was right across from the college that Calvin founded (can you say Calvin College?).

We also went in the church that Calvin founded and that John Knox preached in. The Presbyterians from Scotland hid here during the protestant persecutions.

From there we headed to the Archeological Site. This is a site that was discovered when the floor of a church started to fall in. They took out the floor and discovered the remains of two 4th century Christians sanctuaries, mosaic floors from the late Roman Empire, portions of three early churches, and an 11th century crypt. There were even wells from before the time of Christ. This place was amazing. They just built one thing on top of another. At one spot we saw a tomb that had been covered up by the floor of the next church. They found the mosaic under many different layers of floors, roads and dirt. There were wells from before the time of Christ uncovered as well. It was like they weren't concerned about what they built on top of, just as long as a building went up. After 20 years, they are still working on uncovering news sites and add to the museum whenever they find something new. We even saw the desk of one of the archeologists sitting amongst the diggings.

After a great lunch, we stopped at a store that specializes in Olive oil. We tried three different types of olive oil straight from the spoon. It was really good. I can't wait to make our tomato salad with my new purchase. From the olive oil, we headed to the Maison Tavel. This is the oldest house in Geneva. We searched the house from the attic to the basement. The second floor was set up with period furniture from the 1800s (complete with wallpaper). There were also samples of doors from houses that were torn down in the last hundred years, including one that had medieval graffiti! We also saw a guillotine and a model of Geneva in the early 1800s.

We were going to visit the museum of the history of watch making, but we learned that it had closed. Bummer. So instead, we walked around in downtown Geneva until we reached the waterfront again. We decided that since we were in Geneva, we should take a boat tour. We toured around Lake Lemont for an hour, before heading to dinner. There are many restaurants in Geneva, but they are all different nationalities, not many Swiss restaurants. So, we talked about it for a while and decided to go back to the fondue place that we had been to the night before. This time, we took the boys and had the raclette instead of the fondue. It was great! We all had a good time and had great food. The staff said they will see us tomorrow!

Tomorrow we head to Italy. We are going to spend two nights there and have a really long drive on Sunday. But we are only here once!! Of course, we said that before. We will check in on Monday. Until then!

Amy

Tuesday, April 19, 2005

Furman weekly, Special Edition, April 18 - 20

Hello all from Switzerland!! So many things are happening, we thought we should divide the weekly into smaller chunks. You may hear from us a few times this week.

When we left you last, we had just finished a long day in Lyon. The next day, we left Lyon to explore some of the area around the city. First, we drove south to the town of Vienne. This town is well known for being a former Gallo-Roman city.

Our first stop was St Maurice Church. It is named after a martyr from the third century. He was a captain of the guard who refused to offer a sacrifice to the Roman gods after his town was taken. So he was beheaded. He is now a saint and his relic at the church is his head. The Catholics here are very strange. It is a very pretty church and had some very impressive Flemish tapestries depicting the life of Saint Maurice, including his beheading. I told you the Catholics are weird.

From the church, we walked to a temple dedicated to Augustus Caesar and his wife, Livie. I can't explain how strange it is to be wandering around a fairly modern town (built several hundred, if not a thousand years ago) and stumble across a roman temple. It seems so out of place. We tried to take some pictures to show the incongruity. We'll see how we did.

From there it was off to Cybele's garden. Here we found the ruins of an aquaduct that filled the baths and the ruins of a temple to the goddess Cybele. There were also ruins of the anterooms where bull sacrifices were performed.

We tried to visit the L'eglise Saint-Pierre. This church has a wonderful museum of archeology in the basement, but because it was Monday, it was closed. Oh well, we consoled ourselves with lunch in a cute little Italian restaurant. The waiter was very funny and entertaining. He kept us laughing the whole meal.

We decided to head north of Lyon at this point to check out the Beaujolais wine region. We stopped at a winery that is also a 15th century chateau. The best thing about this winery is that we had free reign over the castle. We could roam the rooms at will. It wasn't a very big place, but we sure had fun playing. We checked out the chapel, guard room, dungeon (complete with bones that glowed under a black light), and the kitchen. It was a lot of fun. Then we sampled some of the local wine, and Dave and I bought a few bottles.

We asked for a recommendation for dinner from the front desk again. This time we were directed to a really cool brasserie, the Brasserie George. It is the oldest restaurant in Europe. They started serving in 1836! The meal was very good, but we couldn't eat it all. Very large portions for a French restaurant. We started with French onion soup, the tried the sauerkraut and sausage. Every table had a comment card (which is also unusual for a French restaurant), but what could we say about a restaurant that was 170 years old!

The next day we packed up and left Lyon. We were on our way to Geneva! We had a very pleasant drive through the mountains (literally, many tunnels and viaducts, really high ones) and found Geneva with no problem. Getting around in Geneva was another thing. We have been spoiled by the wonderful direction signs in France. Geneva is not so well marked. We drove around for an hour looking for the hotel. We finally had to head back out of town and start allover again. Fortunately, the town has great public transportation, so we parked the car and won't need it again until we leave.

All that driving around made us very late for lunch. We also didn't have any Swiss Francs (they aren't part European Union so no Euros), so our choices were limited. We walked into a restaurant across from the hotel and the owner was willing to serve us at such a weird time AND took credit cards. What was really cool was it was a Lebanese restaurant. Wow! This was an awesome meal. We told him it was the first time we were eating Lebanese food, so he took the menu away and just made us a bunch of samples. It was some of the best food I have ever had. We had rice in grape leaves, lamb prepared three different ways (in bread), sausage, three different salads, and two different kinds of dips for the flat breads. He also made us a fruit juice mix that was spectacular.

From lunch, we decided to walk along the water front and take in the sights. Highlights from this walk included the first protestant church in Geneva, built for the refugees fleeing from France, a clock (in Switzerland?) made from flowers, and the Jet d'eau. This is a jet of water that shoots out of Lake Lemont to a height of 460 ft. It is pretty impressive, not to mention wet. Also, all the way along, are wonderful views of the Alps in the distance.

Well, I will close this edition and fill you in on our adventures again later in the week. Hope all is well. We'll have some Fondue for you.

Amy

Saturday, April 16, 2005

Furman weekly, April 11 - 17; Volume 3, Number 11

Well, last time we talked, we were recovering from a whirlwind visit with Wendy. We continued to rest on Monday and Tuesday, not to mention clean house. We were preparing for our next set of visitors, my parents. They arrived on Wednesday at noon. We took them out for pizza, then we just rested around the house. The trip over is quite a shock and we usually take the first day easy. Grandpa did take the kids out for a walk and had them convinced that they were lost. He isn't commenting. They made it home in time for dinner though, so all was well.

On Thursday, the boys went to the tutor's in the morning. While Andrew was there, Grandpa blew up his shaver with the 220v we have here. So we made a quick trip to the store. We also picked up some new things to try, after all we were shopping with MY father, the ultimate shopper!! We tried some French salami, ham, and three different kinds of cheeses. All were very good.

That evening, I took my parents out to the same Chinese place I took Wendy while Dave stayed home with the boys and worked. We had a fun time and my Dad learned that the cokes are very small (33cl), there are no refills, and the wine is cheaper. We all agreed that the nems are wonderful.

Friday morning, we went to downtown Toulouse so my dad could change some American money that he brought along. Silly man. After we concluded our business at the bank, we decided to do some sight-seeing downtown. We saw the Capitole square, the Marie, St Sernin cathedral, and the church that St Sernin started. We also made a stop at the museum of antiquities of Toulouse. This museum is amazing. They have rooms of Roman statuary that were all found around Toulouse. We saw busts of all of the Roman emperors from the one before Augustus (BC) to almost 400 AD, and some of their wives. Then in the basement, we saw lots of sarcophaguses that they discovered when they were remodeling the basement of the museum. It turns out that the museum was built on top of an old Roman burial ground! They had no idea that there were over 100 sarcophaguses in the basement. Some of them were left where they were, so you could see how they looked when they were found. We also found some glass containers! None of us knew that they made glass that long ago.

Saturday morning we left Toulouse around 10:00. We drove all the way to Lyon. It was about a six hour trip. It rained a lot of the way, but while we were in the mountains it snowed!! The only time it snows here is when people from home are here.

After checking into the hotel and baths for the boys, we headed downtown to a restaurant recommended by the front desk. It is called the Trois Maries (three mayors) and is apparently a very well known restaurant in Lyon. It was really good. We broke our long standing avoidance of beef and had steak. (It is said that now the beef here is safer than there. I hope so.) It was wonderful. There was a very funny Frenchman sitting at the table next to us and at one point he even took our picture for us. It was a really fun night, but very late. We got back to the hotel at 11:00!

Sunday morning we woke up to a steady rain. Yuck. We dragged our feet getting ready, but it didn't show any signs of letting up, so we headed out anyway. By the time we got to Lyon center, it was pouring. We had a hard time finding a place to park due to a marathon being run through downtown, but we eventually managed it. Then we explored old Lyon for a bit. It is a very pretty town, with tons of little alleyway streets all over. Just what you would see in the movies. We tried to go to a museum (to get out of the rain) that said that it was open everyday, but it was closed. So we headed over to the Cathedral Saint Jean and arrived just as it closed for lunch. We instead headed to the cable car to see the basilica at the top of cliff overhanging the city. But when we got to the top, it was nowhere to be found. We searched for a while, decided that we were hungry, and headed back down to find some lunch. We stopped at a friendly brasserie and all had crepes for lunch (they are not just dessert!)

We then stopped by St Jean's cathedral. It is very pretty and has the honor of having the organ that was the first one to be recorded. They also have a very unusual clock. It has been around since at least 1383, and from it you can determine the time, the date, the year (yes, it said 2005), any liturgical holidays, and your astrological sign. In addition, three times a day, it acted out when Peter denied Christ three times. The cock even crowed. It was really something to see!

Then we took the cable car back up to the top of the cliff (on a different line this time) and found the basilica. It was built to show how powerful the catholic church was after the very anti-church revolution. There are mosaics from floor to ceiling (including the floor) and all use gold. The rest is gilded in gold. We will post some pictures, but decided that it would be really hard to describe. It was beautiful, but over the top, too. Too much beauty, if there is such a thing.

We looked out over the cliff to see the city. It was a very beautiful view, but the edges of the city disappeared into the rain clouds (yes, it was still raining).

Our last stop of the day was the Roman theater and museum. The theater was impressive, but nothing like the museum. It was amazing. There were tons of displays. There were funeral monuments, statues, mosaics, signs, catapults, money, and even glass (we weren't surprised by this anymore though). One of the most memorable was a huge bronze plaque (20 ft x 15 ft) that reprinted a speech by a Roman emperor from in 61 AD. It was amazing. We also saw coins and coin molds from before Christ! The only problem was that we had about an hour to spend there and we only saw about a third of the museum! They kicked us out at closing time. We will try to work a trip back into our busy schedule.

We had PB&Js in the hotel and are heading off to an early bed. My parents are out to dinner somewhere. We hope they can find their way back to the hotel. We are going to spend one more day here in Lyon, then move on to Geneva. From there we aren't sure. We will just have to see. We will be sure to let you know what we are up to, though!!

Until next week!

Amy

Sunday, April 10, 2005

Furman weekly, April 4 - 10; Volume 3, Number 10

Whew! What a week. We are worn out.

On Monday, after the boys went to the tutor's, we rested around the house so Wendy wouldn't be worn out when she went back to school next week. We had Roxanna come over that night, though, so we could take Wendy to the P'tit Montagnard, our favorite fondue restaurant. Our first stop was the capitol square for drinks. Wendy tried a southern France favorite, Pastis. It tastes like black licorice. Then it was off to dinner. We had a great time. It is fun to share these places with our family.

On Tuesday, while Dave was at work, we packed up and headed to Albi. Even though the boys were just there, we had lots of fun. Due to construction, we had to park a ways from the cathedral. But we stumbled across a new museum. This museum follows the travels of a French explorer, Laperouse. He sailed all over, and meet his end at New Zeeland in Botany Bay. We had fun looking at all of the items that they recently pulled up from the shipwreck.

Then it was off to lunch. Wendy tried the French favorite, croq monsieur. We also enjoyed some hot chocolate after the meal. Of course.

The church was next on our list. We got there right as it opened after lunch and looked around for a while. Unfortunately, due to the death of the pope, only certain parts of the church were lit. The treasure and the choir stalls were closed. But Wendy was impressed by the beauty of the cathedral. She agreed that it is nearly impossible to describe the impressiveness of the building.

From there, we went through the Toulouse-Lautrec museum. This isn't a museum geared to kids, but ours did really well on their second trip through. We rented audio-guides and Michael loved searching for the numbers on the paintings. Then he would listen to the guide, even though I don't think he could understand any of it.

When we got home that night, we noticed that we no longer had any hot water. Oh No!! Another plumbing saga. How long would this take?

Wednesday morning we spent resting. Dave came home at 3:00 (after watching the A380 roll to the test hanger) to work from home. Wendy and I left and headed to the "center commercial." We sat outside in the sun and had "tea" before heading in to check out the grocery store. It is quite an experience. We looked at things for a while and Wendy picked up some surprises for people back home. After dropping off our treasures, the two of us headed to dinner. We went out for Chinese. You would think that it would be the same from country to country, wouldn't you? Nope. Our favorite things are nems. They are like spring rolls that you wrap in a leaf of lettuce with a sprig of mint. Yummy!! We had a lot of fun hanging out together, and finished off the night sharing a bottle of cidre with Dave at home.

On Thursday, the boys visited with the tutor. I dropped them off in between visits from the plumber. No hot water is an two day wait. Not bad. After he had left, I jumped into the shower before going to pick up Andrew. When I got out, we noticed water pouring out of the hot water heater! No shower for Wendy yet. After a few frantic phone calls, I left to pick up Dave and Andrew. In the meantime, the water heater healed itself and all was well. We quick grabbed a bite to eat and headed off to Auch, the home of D'Artagnan (the three musketeers). On the way, we stumbled across pieces of the A380, getting ready to squeeze through the town just north of Colomiers, on it's way to the assembly plant. Cool. Check out the size of the fuselage compared to the size of the truck towing it. (by the way, the website is up and running. Check us out at efurman.com)

When we got to Auch, we discovered that it was very crowded. There was a funeral going on in the church and a carnival in the park. There were people waiting in the parking lots on the off chance someone would come back to their car and leave a space. We drove around for a little while and then, after some fancy maneuvering on our part, parked on the curb, down the street from the church. All four wheels up on the sidewalk. When in France...

We explored the city and ended up back at the cathedral. Wendy took some really great pictures, while I entertained Michael. He is tired of sight-seeing. He kept saying "I hate this church." and "This music is giving me a headache." There were organ lessons going on so they did repeat a lot, but I thought it was very pretty.

On the way home, we passed by the A380 again. They were preparing to take it through town. They raise the wings up on an angle so they fit better down the skinny streets.

Friday morning, we had a special birthday breakfast for Wendy. Then we rested because we had a busy day ahead. Wendy and I dropped the boys off with Lisa Reich (after another really fancy parking job downtown) and went to downtown Toulouse for the afternoon. We had a great lunch in the sun on the terrace of a cute brasserie. Then we explored two different churches to compare different building styles. Then we decided to stop and have hot chocolate (of course) at a brasserie. After we ordered, the sky opened up and it POURED!! But by the time we were done, the sun was shinning again. On our way back to pick up the boys, we stopped at two different chocolateries to sample and purchase sweets for Wendy to bring home. In one of the shops (the first place that made chocolate in France) they sold hot chocolate. Well, I am not one to turn that down. So I ordered one. Wow. First, she took powdered cocao, mixed it with a little bit of liquid ginger. She stirred it for a while until Wendy said it looked like crude oil. The she took a piece of 92% cocao chocolate and broke it into pieces to add to the cup. After this was mixed well (this took up 3/4 of the cup), she added hot milk. This was awesome. I will be stopping there whenever I am in Toulouse!!

That night we headed off to the Cote de Boeuf. This is the restaurant where we go to feel cared for and known in Toulouse. Dave is always greeted with a handshake at the door. Now I am greeted as well. A handshake and a kiss!!! I knew they would take good care of Wendy on her birthday. And they did. We had a wonderful meal. Then, we not only got after dinner drinks (on the house), she left the bottle. And when she felt that we were not taking advantage of this, she refilled our cups! It's good to know people.

We slept in some on Saturday, so we got a late start. We decided to head north to visit the caves of Lascaux II. As we got underway, the skies turned very threatening. We considered turning around and heading south, but decided to chance it. After a downpour, the sun came out and the drive was very pretty. We stopped for lunch in Cahors, but first visited the devil's bridge. Apparently, to find the money to finish the bridge, the city leader's made a deal with the devil. In exchange for a finished bridge, the devil would get the soul of the first person who crossed the bridge. After it was finished, no one would cross, so the city sent a dog across. The devil was furious!! He caused the center tower to fall down. Each time the city rebuilt the tower, it fell down again. Finally, they built a small demon onto the tower. This seems to have appeased the devil, because the tower is still standing.

After visiting the bridge, we stopped at a cave (wine seller) to purchase a specific brand of cahors wine that we enjoyed but can't find in the store. How fun to be familiar enough with the wine to know where to find a certain kind. While we were in the store, it started snowing heavily. What is going on with the weather? By the time we left the store, the sun was shining again. Then we grabbed sandwiches to eat in the car and went on our way.

We visited Lascaux II again, while Dave and Michael took a walk. This tour guide told us some new things. He also turned off all of the lights and held up a lighter to the walls to show us how the paintings seem to move in the firelight. Very impressive.

Then it was off to the Parc Prehistoric. We had fun walking through the park in the sun, although it was quite cold. Because we were there so late in the day, the flint knapper had already left. Maybe he will be there when we return with my parents.

We started heading for home, but decided that since it was Wendy's last day, we should make one more stop. We decided to eat in Sarlat (where they taped EVER AFTER). We ate at a cozy brasserie, where Wendy had her first French pizza (without egg) and her last hot chocolate. It was very late when we finally got home, but we had a really good day.

Wendy left this morning and will be home late tonight. I think that she had a fun visit and that we didn't tire her out too much. I know that we enjoyed having her. We miss her and she was only here for a week. I hope that she can come again.

The Reich's came over for haircuts and pizza tonight. We had a good evening and sent the kids to bed early. They are worn out from a week of playing tourist and need to rest up before my parents arrive on Wednesday. Then we are planning a week long vacation starting Saturday. We hope to make it to Switzerland and maybe even Italy! We will keep you posted.

Until next week!

Amy